Like so many others this park was originally a hunting reserve, owned by the Panna family. The boundary of the 540 sq. km park is marked by the broad and rocky River Ken which flows through the Vindhya range in Madhya Pradesh towards the Ganges. Panna was granted National Park status in 1981 and is emerging as another of India's great success stories, after a somewhat chequered past.

The tiger population had decreased to almost unsustainable numbers but a strong combined effort is turning around the fortunes of this beautiful park. Alongside other more sinister factors, the continued illegal logging and grazing was putting pressure on the forest resources. An illegal sandstone mine was causing obvious destruction and disturbance and the nearby diamond mine was polluting the river. Happily a change in management practices and lobbying by the Environmental Investigation Agency (EIA) led to the state government closing the illegal mines and forcing the cleaning up of diamond mining processes. Panna still has major problems with protecting its tigers and park authorities intent on discrediting any scientific work that would give us a 'true' picture of the state of the park, hardly helps matters.

The park is deeply forested with dry deciduous varieties such as teak, acacia and sal. The dense cover provides excellent habitat for nilgai, chinkara, sambar and chitel as well as more elusive species such as the sloth bear, wolf, tiger, leopard and lesser cats. The river is home to both of India's crocodiles the marsh mugger and the fish eating gharial, for which there is a separate breeding sanctuary. Unlike nearby Bandhavgarh, this park attracts an excellent variety of resident and migratory bird species, from storks and cranes to eagles and vultures, it is particularly noted for the high density of Paradise FlyCatchers.

Morning jeep safaris are longer than the afternoon drives, and there is the option to transfer to elephant back if a tiger has been sighted off-track. Even without a tiger sighting it is worth taking a short safari by elephant to travel deeper under the canopy and in to the rocky ravines. Depending on season and availability it may also be possible to take a boat or to go on foot, only if accompanied by an armed guard.

The park is open from 1st October to the end of June and is approximately 30km from Khajuraho. Combining wildlife safaris with a visit to the incredible temples of Khajuraho, with their erotic carvings, is a unique experience. There is a lodge within the forest close to the park boundary, the safari tents and simple cottages are within a stone throw of the River Ken. Alternatively the park is close enough to be visited from Khajuraho itself. The park can be reached by air from Delhi or Agra to Khajuraho, or by rail to Jhansi (followed by a four hour drive). It is possible to travel on from Panna by road to Bandhavgarh, however this route is only for the more adventurous, being in a particularly poor state of repair the uncomfortable journey can take up to seven hours.